The CLIC® Chronicles: Meet Spinnova, the sustainable textile company inspired by spiders

January 12, 2023

At almost every moment, virtually every one of us is surrounded by some kind of fabric: from the clothes we put on in the morning to the upholstery we sit on throughout the day and the bedding that envelopes us as we drift off to sleep at night.

But our reliance on textiles also serves to amplify the many sustainability problems faced by the industry that produces them, from its heavy reliance on finite resources like water and oil to its impact on the environment through pollution and waste. These issues have been well documented, with research showing that the industry is responsible for up to 10% of global carbon emissions and 20% of global wastewater.1

Discover our new CLIC® Shapers video with Shahriare Mahmood, Chief Sustainability officer at Spinnova®, the textile company producing eco-friendly fabric inspired by spiders:

Material challenges

This heavy reliance on water consumption is one of the biggest sustainability challenges facing the textile industry. According to the European Parliament, producing a single cotton t-shirt requires up to 2,700 litres of water.1 This is because cultivating cotton involves multiple water-intensive processes, including irrigation, pesticide and fertiliser application, and washing the harvested raw materials.

…the textile industry has a lot of work to do. But where many see only problems, one company has seen opportunity

Another major sustainability issue is the textile industry’s use of chemicals and other hazardous materials. The sector relies heavily on chemicals for processes such as dyeing and finishing, which can pollute water sources and, in turn, cause environmental damage and risks to human health. The fashion industry is responsible for dumping up to 20% of the world’s wastewater, which often contains toxic chemicals and plastic microfibres.3

The textile industry’s reliance on water and chemicals has even led to water scarcity in some regions. In India, for example, the city of Tiruppur has experienced severe water shortages due to its role as a hub for the country’s textile industry.4

Fast fashion, which involves the rapid production and disposal of clothing, has also created a significant textile waste and pollution problem. The United States, for example, sends around 9 billion tonnes of textile waste to landfill each year – or around 32 kg for each American.5

In short, the textile industry has a lot of work to do. But where many see only problems, one company has seen opportunity.

With its focus on creating high-quality, eco-friendly fabrics, Finnish textile company Spinnova is quickly gaining recognition for its pioneering, sustainable approach to material manufacturing

A new approach to textiles

With its focus on creating high-quality, eco-friendly fabrics, Finnish textile company Spinnova is quickly gaining recognition for its pioneering, sustainable approach to material manufacturing.

Founded in 2014, Spinnova was created to provide a greener alternative to the traditional cotton industry. The company’s founders, Janne Poranen and Juha Salmela, had an unusual source of inspiration, as Shahriare Mahmood, Spinnova’s Chief Sustainability Officer, explains: “Our co-founder, Juha Salmela, was actually observing how a spider creates its web. From that, he had the idea of using cellulose to produce fibres in a very similar way.”

The result is a unique approach to textile production that uses no harmful chemicals – only wood fibres and a tiny amount of water. The process begins by breaking wood fibres down into a pulp, which is then spun into yarn using a special spinning technology. The resulting yarn is incredibly soft and durable, making it perfect for a wide range of fashion applications.

Read also: The CLIC® Chronicles: Rethinking textiles for the circular economy

While cotton requires large amounts of water and pesticides to grow, Spinnova’s sources its wood fibres from sustainably managed forests and they require 99.5% less water to produce than traditional cotton

Wood is the new cotton

According to Spinnova, its fabrics have a range of sustainability benefits over traditional cotton.

While cotton requires large amounts of water and pesticides to grow, Spinnova’s sources its wood fibres from sustainably managed forests and they require 99.5% less water to produce than traditional cotton. Spinnova’s fibres are also 100% biodegradable and compostable, eliminating the need for harmful disposal methods and reducing the impact on the environment.

At the same time, Spinnova emphasises the circularity of its fabrics. The company’s wood fibres can be entirely recycled and re-used in its production processes with no loss of quality, even without the addition of virgin fibres.

Spinnova delivers its sustainable fabrics without compromising on versatility. The company’s yarn can be used to create a wide range of fabrics, including lightweight, breathable materials for summer clothing; warm and durable fabrics for winter wear; and even hardwearing textiles for home furnishing and car upholstery.

Spinnova’s technology has already garnered significant attention from both the fashion industry and investors. In 2018, the company raised USD 7.5 million from investors6, and has partnered with a number of major fashion brands – including H&M and Marimekko – to develop sustainable fabrics using its technology.

Read also: The CLIC® Chronicles: 10 ways to build a circular economy and the companies leading the way

BY LOMBARD ODIER

Information

• Location: Helsinki, Finland

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Taxonomy

• Textile
• Fibers & Textiles
• Textile